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    September 23

    Guilin Part Two

     
    <Note: I started writing this on my birthday 2006, having finally sobered up I have decided to post, apologies for the long delay - I have incorporated a number of links which I urge you to follow - Guilin and it's surrounds are topographically spectacular>
     
    <More Notes: Part one can be read here>
     
    We arrived in a small village/tourist spot in Guilin after driving throught the night. We decided that we would start the day with a hearty cooked breakfast. In England a hearty cooked breakfast consists of sausage, bacon, egg, black pudding (kind of blood sausage), fried bread, grilled tomatoes, baked beans, and I have even seen chips (a chunky type of french fries). A coronary on a platter - mmmmm delicious.  We have this every day in England without fail, which probably explains our plummeting life expectancy. 
     
    We pulled up outside a restuarant which overlooked the famous Moon Hill, stretched our cramped legs and called for the breakfast menu.  The waitress gave us a strange look and explained that there was not such thing - however if we were so inclinced we could order from the dinner menu.
     
    After breakfast/dinner we decided that the first activity should be to locate a hotel.  Naturally the driver knew of a rather good one in Yangshuo, a few km's away.  Yangshuo sits on the Li River and appears to be the hub of tourist activity in the area so we agreed to start our accomadation hunt there.
     
    After about 30 minutes of driving around Yangshuo it was becoming increasingly apparent that the driver hadn't actually been here before, let alone know of a top-notch hotels suitable for a gentleman of leisure and his entourage. 
     
    During this time we had been shadowed by a young couple on a moped desperately trying to attract our attention with frantic waving and tooting.  Naturally we strictly followed the time-tested strategy when faced with unwelcomed attention by aloofly looking in the opposite direction.
     
    We had heard of a famous road called West Street, or 西街 in local lingo.  This pedestrianised road is the focal point for the hordes of visitors that come to enjoy the peace, quiet and tranquility of the area.  Somehow they feel the best way to appreciate this is by going to heaving bars that pump out the latest throbbing rock songs.  Of course this kind of thing doesn't appeal to me - who would want to spend a precious evening surrounded by hot and sweaty, scantitly clad twentysomethings on a wild bender - every night is spring break in West Street.
     
    But our options appeared limited, so it was with a heavy heart that it became the focal point in our quest for a place to rest.  We told the driver to pull over and hopped out of the car.  At preciely the same time the young lady that had been shadowing us hopped of the scooter - they were like the damn mosquitos, we couldn't get rid of them.
     
    Vincent, my long suffering co-worker, friend, translator and hanger-on make the fatal mistake of acknowledging her, we were doomed.
     
    Actually we were saved!!
     
    It transpired that she was an official guide from the town tourist board.  Within minutes we were being shown around a variety of hotels - not only were they reasonable quality, she also appeared to be getting pretty decent prices.
     
    Once we selected the evenings accomadation she then preceeded to convince us that we should hire her, for a mere 20RMB ($3USD) per day, to recommend attractions and show us around.  Here we go I thought - the cynic in me suddenly realized what was going on - she would take us only to the places where she was getting the biggest kickback.  Or worse still lead us to some remote place where she and her boyfriend would gang-rape us and steal our money.  We were doomed.
     
    Given the previous ineptitude of our driver I decided to hire her. The fact that she she was amazingly cute had no bearing on my decision making process.  I also figured the boyfriend would go for Vincent first when it came to the gang-rape, leaving little, defenseless me at her mercy and perverted whim.
     
    Regardless of how worldly-wise I think that I am, I read her completely wrong.  She was completely on the level - impartial advice, knowledgable, a great guide - and most importantly drop dead gorgeous.  She survives on the tips she receives by providing an excellent service - I have her card so if anyone is heading that way drop me a line and I'll let you know her phone number.
      
    We dicovered that Yangshuo offers many things to the well heeled tourist,  river trips on Bamboo boats with hunting Cormorants, plenty of hotels and hostels (of varying quality), restaurants galore, enough beer to sink a battleship, throbbing clubs and, most importantly, scenary that blows your fucking socks off.
     
    And then there is the ubiqitous tat shops.  These exist the world over selling asorted trinkets and hand-made crap that any self-respecting 6 year-old would be too embarassed to take home from school.  Naturally I purchased tons of the stuff to palm off to family and friend back in Blighty.  Somewhere at 30,000 feet over the Urals, as I head home, the origins of the junk will transform from haggling with a fake Armani-clad Del Boy, to become a genuine ethinic fertility symbol, hand-crafted by mountain folk, during the long winter nights in their goat-skin hovels, where, for generations, they have survived solely on fresh air and despair.  
     
    I'll even manage to find a photo on the Interweb that will support my story.
     
     
     
    In Part 3 - I'll tell you all about our hot air balloon ride - a ripping yarn not to be missed - due for publication sometime in 2008.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

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